
Hola todos. As mentioned in the last blog installment our stay in Leรณn was brief as I am wanting to be in Colombia by the end of the first week of December while having time to explore Panamรก. Because of this the next few legs of this journey we will be moving fast. So our first whistle stop of the push to Panama – Leรณn Nicaragua.
After I arrived, checked into hostel and sorted basics out (shop and ATM) I had a look round to see if there were any free tours going and it happened that there was one starting at half 4. Was able to join onto it literally as it was getting started. Leo, our guide was a top bloke and could highly recommend, unfortunately I haven’t got the company name as it was all very last minute.com
We look round the cathedral and some churches then he goes on to explain the murals around the city representing the struggle of Nicaragua against American occupation and meddling. The US has quite a long history of ‘gunboat diplomacy’ and political meddling in Nicaragua going back as far as 1912. The first period of this was the 1912 to 1933 US military occupation to depose a ‘banana republic’ though the reality was big business wanted to build a canal through Nicaragua. Sounds very much like the what the European empires were doing in Asia….. Remember kids, It’s totally NOT imperialism when Uncle Sam does it!!
In this period there are several revolts against the US but the most famous one and the one which eventually gets the US to withdraw is that of Augusto Cรฉsar Sandino – Sandinos rebels operated from 1928 to 1933 when though they could not defeat the US marines the liberal party of Sandino secured a peaceful US withdrawal. Sandino was a hero but he died shortly after being killed by US sympathisers in the national army after being stopped at a checkpoint. He is known as a martyr today and his Party, the Sandinista National Liberation Front (FSLN) are still in charge today.
After WW2 and the start of the cold war between the US and USSR came the next round of Uncle Sam’s totally NOT imperialism in Latin America – this time enter dictator Anastasio Somoza Garcia. This guy’s history is quite long being first elected in 1937 dubiously then forced out in the 1940s and then coming back to power in 1950 in a rigged election. His family the Somoza family would rule for 42 years being backed by the US because it kept communism out of America’s back yard. Basically most of his rule was centred around extracting the wealth of the nation to build his business empire in Managua. He would invite foreigners to Managua and show how Nicaragua is a developed country and how pristine it is while outside of the capital everything was in rack and ruin unless his family had a stake in it. The regime committed atrocities against its own people during his rule and there’s the famous quote by President Roosevelt when being questioned about him. “He’s a son of a bitch, but he’s our son of a bitch”.
Somoza had a house in Leรณn which we visited on the tour. Today it is famous because it is also where he met his end being assassinated by a writer from Leรณn, Rigoberto Lรณpez Pรฉrez, he was killed by the guards moments after and today is seen as a martyr for freedom in Nicaragua, the house today is a shrine to him. His death however didn’t change things much, Somoza’s son, Luis Somoza Debayle took over the regime and ruled until 1963 until he steps down and puts a number loyalists in charge for the next 10 years. During this time the Sandinistas began organising resistance militias in the mountains backed by the Soviets. Several even go to Russia for training.
In 1974 the last Somoza, a different Antonosio takes power and decides to launch a campaign to crush the rebellion, which was growing fast by now. In 1975 the US pulls support for the regime and the guerillas slowly start to get the upper hand. By 1978 the Revoluciรณn is in full swing and by 1979 the last Somoza would flee to Paraguay before later being assassinated himself in the 80’s by another writer.
Now the Sandinistas are in power. The revolution was a success. Is this the end of Uncle Sam’s totally NOT imperialism in Nicaragua now? Absolutely not. This begins the next phase – the Contra War – The contras were militias made up of loyalists to the old regime who fled to the border regions after the FSLN takes over and are armed and backed by the US and other Latin American neighbors of Nicaragua to fight a 9 year long Guerilla war. During this time there was a ‘mandatory army’ basically any random person could be called up to go fight this border war including women and children. It was a bloody affair with around 80000 being killed and half a million people displaced.In 1990 this war ends after the historic 1990 election which sees a new party under Violetta Chamorro win the election in a promise not to ‘win’ the war but end the war. She managed to win with 55% of the vote to 45% of the FSLN. She became Latin America’s first female president and ended the war through a system of giving land and money to anyone who would hand in their weapons. Somehow she managed to do it and get sanctions lifted and foreign investment into Nicaragua which saw a period of economic prosperity which also brought a baby boom to the country.
After this ‘good’ time Nicaragua began to fall back into economic and social decline again in the early 2000’s and eventually the Sandinistas are re-elected back into power in 2006 and have stayed in power since then to the present day under president Daniel Ortega. During this time up to 2018 the country was going through a period of economic development and was considered safer than Honduras or pre Bukele El Salvador though 2018 came a sort of second revolution when government and students clashed leading to about 600 being killed. This violence during this time drove a lot of tourism out of the country and put sanctions back on Nicaragua to a certain degree. Shortly after this then of course came COVID, which would likely further have hammered the economy here. I later learned they didn’t shut down everything but no doubt tourism further would have dried up. Today tourism and the overall economy seems to be picking up again though safe to say the future for Nicaragua is uncertain. I just hope peace lasts as I’ve grown to like this place!
After these history lessons we went to a theatre briefly and seen a concert for a few minutes – it was free as the local gov is trying to promote this culture to locals and tourists alike.We wrapped up the tour at a local market and sampled some street food. After this we went our separate ways as hadn’t really talked to anyone here so rolling the RNG I went out and did the solo thing again but didn’t meet anyone interesting. I headed back to the gaff at around half 10.
Tomorrow I go to Granada……….if it’s okay will spend the weekend here. If it’s another San Miguel or Tuxtla I keep moving.











































































